If you want the beautiful beaches, stunning scenery and luxurious accommodation but not the crowds, then you'll have to travel to some of Thailand's more remote islands. It will be well worth the effort. . . .

LIKE strings of beach-fringed pearls set amid warm, blue seas, the myriad islands of Thailand are one of the country's biggest draws. Phuket, Koh Samui and Koh Phi Phi have all become well-established destinations. However, finding the sense of peace and timeless beauty that first attracted visitors to these islands is harder to come by.

For the adventurous who seek an island retreat without the crowds, but with all the indulgence of comfort and service, the remoter islands are starting to appeal. From the eastern archipelago of Koh Chang, through to Bangkok's favourite, Koh Samet, the dive paradise of Koh Tao and the relaxed charm of Koh Lanta Yai, these islands provide superb accommodation and easier access. With the Tourism Authority of Thailand's avowed aim of creating sustainable, environmentally sensitive tourism, one hopes the mistakes of the past will not be repeated.

Koh Samet A tiny sliver of white-sand beach, set amid clear azure seas, Koh Samet is, in fact, part of a national park ? entrance fee ?4.50 ? and its proximity to Bangkok, just a three-hour drive, makes it a favourite weekend destination. Only three miles long and less than 600 yards wide at its narrowest point, the sea is never far away. It's pretty easy to explore on foot, though most people prefer to do nothing more than lounge on the beach, occasionally dipping their toes in the water.

The east coast is almost continuous beach, thronged with bungalows and bars. Hat Sai Kaew is the focal point; the sands and sea are divine, although it can become crowded. There's only one small pretty beach, Ao Proa, on the west side of Koh Samet, but some splendid cliffside walks.

How to get there Buses leave every 15 minutes from the Eastern Bus Terminal near Ekamai Skytrain station in Bangkok to Rayong. The journey takes two hours 30 minutes and costs ?3.

Then it's a further half-hour by bus or taxi to Ban Phe Phe, followed by a short ferry ride to Koh Samet. A taxi directly from Bangkok to Ban Phe Phe should cost no more than ?45 ? negotiate a price before setting off.

Where to stay The Ao Prao Resort (00 66 2 438 9771; www.aopraoresort.com) is a collection of pleasant bungalows centred on the quiet Ao Prao beach.

Next door, the Le Virmarn is a sleek, upmarket resort with a pool and wonderful cottages.

If you want to stay near the action, the Sai Kaew Beach Resort has a run of simple and stylish beachside cabins. All three resorts are managed by the same group and prices start from around ?65 for Ao Prao and Sai Kaew and ?160 at Le Virmarn.

What to do There are regular snorkelling trips to the small islands that surround Koh Samet, and a dive school at Ao Prao Resort.

But the best thing to do is as little as possible.

Koh Chang Only 10 years ago, Koh Chang (at 18 miles long, Thailand's second biggest island) was so little known it hadn't even made it into backpackers' guide books. Today it stands on the threshold of being Thailand's next big island destination.

At the end of last year, an airport opened at nearby Trat with the aim of turning Koh Chang into a new Phuket ? one million visitors a year are expected next year. If Koh Chang can hang on to its luxuriant interior ? which at the moment is well protected ? and keep its stunning beaches clean, it will become the country's premier sustainable holiday destination.

In the far east of Thailand, Koh Chang is part of an archipelago that makes up a national park. All boats from the mainland arrive on the east side of the island. The west side is where all the best beaches are to be found. The busiest, Sai Khao, is a run of backpacker bungalows, video bars and sarong shops.

The interior is mostly untouched mountainous rainforest filled with wild boar, snakes, tropical birds and beautiful exotic flowers.

There are also some easily accessible waterfalls, great for freshwater dips.

How to get there The new airport has transformed things but you can still travel by minibus. The journey time is roughly six hours and fares cost from ?12.

Alternatively, buses leave every hour for the six-hour journey from Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal next to the Ekamai Skytrain station, with fares from around ?4.50.

From Trat it's a short minibus ride to the piers at Laem Ngob and Centre Point, and then a 45-minute crossing to Koh Chang, with fares from ?1.50.

Where to stay The well-designed, Boutique Resort and Spa (00 66 9 938 6403; www. koh-chang. com/ boutique) on Ao Klong Phroa beach has excellent en-suite bungalows which have a distinctive Thai style. It also has a fine restaurant, a well-managed spa, and a dive shop next door (www. ecodivers.co. th). Doubles cost from around ?50 per night.

What to do Laze on the beaches. Explore by moped, which costs less than ?10 for 24 hours' hire. Go elephant trekking. Take a walk in the interior. Go diving and snorkelling ? there's a dive school next to Boutique resort.

Koh Tao A tiny speck in the middle of the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Tao was once a place where political prisoners were incarcerated. These days, this gorgeous island, with its mix of rocky secluded coastline and palm-fringed beaches, attracts travellers who want to relax or learn to scuba dive.

(Koh Tao hosts the highest concentration of dive schools in Asia. ) The seas around Koh Tao are an excellent place to learn to dive, with weak currents, good visibility and a full repertoire of exotic fish and corals.

However, bad practices by some of the less scrupulous dive schools, plus bad storms, have been killing off coral and driving the bigger fish away.

Koh Tao also has terrible water shortages. How the island overcomes these issues will have a huge bearing on its future.

How to get there About 12 trains to Chumphon leave Bangkok daily. The journey takes eight hours, with fares starting from around ?7.50. Get an early train to connect with the daily boats that go from Chumphon to Koh Tao in two to six hours.

Or fly with Andaman Airlines (www. airandaman. com) to Chumphon. Private speedboats can also be rented for transfers from Chumphon ?they seat 10 and cost about ?450 ? though you'll have to negotiate on the day.

Where to stay Set on the far end of Sairee beach, Coral Grand Resort (00 66 2 629 2916; www. kohtaocoral. com) offers both a dive school and superb accommodation.

A new resort with a very well-run and equipped dive school, its bungalows are stylish to a fault. It's also one of only two places on the island that has its own pool, making it an excellent choice for scuba beginners ? they'll even let you do a free test dive.

Bungalows start from ?50 with online reductions.

What to do Learning to scuba is what most people visit Koh Tao for.

There are more than 20 dive schools on the island and whichever dive school you choose, make sure the equipment is new, well-maintained and that there is a low student to instructor ratio. The best courses, with no more than five students per instructor and new equipment, are scarce and can cost up to 40% more than the more run-of-the-mill courses.

Scuba diving can be dangerous, so it is well worth investing in the best course you can afford. The Coral Grand Resort has excellent courses, all of them including transport, equipment, lunch and soft drinks. On dry land, there's some good walking, meditation retreats and, of course, the beach.