Cucina, Cork

1. Gruel
68a Dame Street, Dublin 2
Tel 01 670 7119


There's little you can say about Gruel that hasn't already been said – übercool staff, grotty industrial interior, off-duty DJs chopping onions behind the counter – but when you're as consistent as this lot, why try elsewhere? The lunchtime rolls are the stuff of Dublin legend, a bargain at €6.40 (keep an eye out for the roast pork with stuffing and apple sauce on Thursdays), and a realistically priced dinner menu (most dishes, including beef hotpot with mash, panfried salmon and baby potatoes, and the obligatory bangers and mash, all cost €13) is a sucker punch to its overpriced neighbours. Yes, the chairs are a bit wonky, and it's near impossible to nab a table most of the time (around 4pm seems a good bet most days), but few inner city diners can claim to boast the 'X factor' like this place. And the Y and Z factors for that matter.


2. Farmgate Café


English Market, Cork


Tel: 021 427 8134


It's difficult to ignore the sense of local pride at Kay Harte's
Farmgate Café, set in the heart of Cork's English Market. Harte's unyielding dedication to artisan produce – most of the ingredients come straight from the market – is a delicious tribute to the dishes of yesteryear; tripe and drisheen (€10.50), lamb, liver and bacon (€11), even the obligatory corned mutton (€12). Along with her sister Maróg O'Brien, whose Midleton-based Farmgate has earned an almost sycophantic following for over 20 years, Harte is one of Ireland's true food patriots. It's a simple approach, buy local, buy Irish, and pass the savings on to the customer. Given the difficulty of getting a table here on a Saturday afternoon, it's a philosophy most can subscribe to.


3. d'Vine


Patrickswell Lane, Drogheda, Co Louth


Tel: 041 980 0440


Blink and you'll miss d'Vine, Sonia Micallef's quirky wine bar on Patrickswell Lane, just off Drogheda's West Street. It's not much to look at from the outside, but is deceptively large, with a lack of natural light giving it a Parisian arrondisment edge. Micallef herself is half-French, half-Italian, reflected in the straightforward menu, simple antipasti platters (antipasto misto is just €9.50, for example, but if you're in a group the 'board to share', with cured meats, cheese and olives, pâté etc is a bargain at €25) and bruschetta (from €5 – €7), and possibly the best wine list in Louth (the Spanish selection is particularly strong). Sundays are your best bet, drop in during the evening to enjoy live jazz as cool as your Chardonnay.


4. Cucina


9 Market Square, Kinsale, Co Cork


Tel: 021 470 0707


Ursula Roncken's modest little café in the heart of Kinsale has been open for four years now, and little has changed in that time; the same, smiling team of staff buzz around with great vigour, the stainless steel and cherrywood countertops glisten away, and you can still eat your fill here and have plenty of change left from a twenty. Roncken cut her teeth under Anthony Worrall Thompson and Stephen Bull in London, meaning the grub here is above your average café fare – from the Portobello mushroom burger with red pepper pesto, rocket, and gubbeen cheese (€8.95) to the crab and avocado salad (the most expensive thing on the menu at €14.50). Drop in next time you're in Cork, even if it takes you a couple of years – nothing's going to change here for a while.


5. Jo'Burger


137 Rathines Road, Dublin 6


Tel: 01 491 3731


Fancy burger joints are ten a penny these days – comfort food to counter the economic slump? – but few boast the bravado and, well, fun, of Rathmines coolest culinary destination. The queues outside may have died down, the 'Beano Annual' menus may be pawed beyond recognition, and they still haven't turned down the music (even a little), but the burgers haven't changed a jot – all weigh in around €11 or €12 and are the source of endless 'you can't put that on a burger' moments. (Smoked applewood cheese and fresh apple wedges? Oh, but of course you can.) That owner Jo Macken decided to open a city centre spin-off, Jo'Banger, on Valentines Day is a statement in itself; after all, we never knew it was possible to fall in love with a beef patty until we dropped into Rathmines one Friday evening.


6. The Blackboard Bistro


Clare Street, Dublin 2


Tel 01 676 6839


Maybe it's the subtle whiff of garlic as you open the door, or the boho basement atmosphere, but I reckon there's something distinctly Gallic about The Blackboard Bistro, even though they don't like to admit it. Open just under a year, this subterranean eatery run by Jean and Pierre Heyraud is an 'Irish-ised' version of devotedly French eateries like Chez Max and Les Frères Jacques; you're just as likely to find bacon and cabbage as moules mariniere on the constantly changing menu. The specials change daily, and it's at lunchtime that the best bargains are to be had – butternut squash risotto costs just €11.50, while a grilled rib-eye steak is an unintimidating €13.50. Mains climb towards the €20 mark in the evening, but I'll forgive Pierre a little extravagance. Faire attention, Monsieur Guilbaud!


7. Goya's


Kirwan's Lane, Galway


Tel: 091 567 010


Visitors to Galway may spend days trawling the cobbled streets of the old city without ever stumbling into the pedestrianised quarter known as Kirwan's Lane. More fool them. Emer Murray is one of the finest baking talents in the country, and her bustling café-cum-cake shop, Goya's, is a local triumph. The cakes, are, of course, sublime (especially the chocolate gateau – be warned, it runs out quickly), and the lunch menu is pleasantly simple, a daily 'plat du jour' (€9.95 – keep an eye out for Goya's Chicken Pie), chicken liver paté (€7.95), and a range of toasted sandwiches (from €3.95). Regular visits here are a rite of passage for many Galwegians; Saturday afternoons in particular are almost like a town hall get-together. With added cake.


8. Poppies


The Square, Enniskerry, Co Wicklow


Tel: 01 282 8869


There are few cafés for which the term 'stalwart' is more applicable than Poppies, in the heart of Enniskerry village. A traditional country café open since 1982, it's a success story that's already shaken off one recession, witnessed first-hand Dublin's southward sprawl, and changed owners a couple of times; not that anyone here seems to have noticed. It's the 'Poppies Chicken' that keeps them coming back – a heady concoction of chicken, rice, celery, onions and cream topped with mixed nuts and cornflakes – but with all meat-based dishes costing just €10.45, and vegetarian dishes priced at €9.95, there's no shortage of options for those less adventurous. Owner Peter Norton has recently opened sister restaurants in Dun Laoghaire and Dundrum – and more power to him – but there are few greater pleasures in life than trekking down from the Wicklow Way for a generous slice of homity pie in Enniskerry's finest.


9. Ard Bia


Spanish Arch, Galway


Tel: 091 539 897


You could spend hours trying to pin down just which nationalities are represented on the menu at Aoibheann McNamara's Ard Bia – according to the woman herself, it's a mixture of "Irish, New Zealand and Lebanese" – but to be honest, I'd much rather spend my time eating it. It's on the lunch menu where the real gems are to be found – the Ard Bia chickpea and coriander burger is just €10, while the deliciously daunting mezze platter will set you back just €9.50. It's an egalitarian kind of place; you might see anyone from bankers to wizened old hippy-types dropping by over the course of an average day. For putting together one of the most delectably versatile menus this side of the Corrib, McNamara deserves her status as Galway's high-priestess of café cuisine.


10. The Wild Onion


High Street, Limerick


Tel: 061 440055


Anywhere described one of as a city's 'best kept secrets' should generally be taken with a handful of salt, and upon arriving at The Wild Onion, in the Milk Market area of Limerick, you may wonder what all the fuss is about. But behind an unassuming blue frontage, next to the High Street Bookstore, charming American owner Ruth DiGirolamo has created a cheap, cheery café that's part greasy spoon, part roadside diner, and all wham bam thank you ma'am. Husband Bob mans the open-plan kitchen here with bluster, while Ruth herself is endearingly forthright – "finish what's in front of you," she tells the kids, "or we'll make you do the washing up." Saturday mornings are when the crowds come, specifically for the 'Eggs McOnion' – a healthy stack of scrambled eggs, sausage and cheddar on homemade bread (€7), as hungover locals munch their way through Texas-sized omelettes (€6 to €9). Also claims to have the best burger in Munster, the half-pound ogre known as the Wild Onion special (€8). God Bless America.


11. Charming Noodles


Parnell Street, Dublin 1


Tel: 01 872 9340


It just wouldn't be right to compile a list of the top 20 great value places to eat in Ireland without including at least one restaurant from Dublin's burgeoning Chinatown area, and while all garner their fare share of support from the local Asian community – a surefire sign of a job well done – this bright 30-seater just shades it by an MSG-free nose. Elegant manager Wei Pan, aka Ricky, oversees a menu that offers a mix of both the familiar and extraordinary – cold noodles with squid, cucumber and mashed garlic (€7.80) anybody? – and the last time three of us ate here, the bill came to less than €50. Including wine. Less of a trip into the unknown than many of its neighbours – you won't find formica-topped tables and astroturf carpets here – yet still cheap enough to knock the socks off most eateries in the vicinity.


12. Cornucopia


Wicklow Street, Dublin 2


Tel: 01 677 7583


Dublin's answer to Cork's Café Paradiso – it actually pre-dates it by around seven years – is possibly one of Dublin's most underrated eateries. A vegetarian restaurant that dates back to a time before vegetarian restaurants, Cornucopia can get a bit cramped at mealtimes, especially around the salad bar, but there's no mistaking the quality of the food. Owner Deirdre McCafferty is dedicated to using wholly organic ingredients; reflected in delectable dishes like the Moroccan chickpea tagine with lemon and coriander couscous (€10.95), and the recent introduction of a lunchtime special – organic soup, salad and a generous chunk of homemade bread for €7.95 – further cements its reputation as the tree-huggers diner of choice. If only Greenpeace did Michelin Stars…


13. The Cake Café


The Daintree Building, Pleasants Place, Dublin 2


Tel: 01 478 9394


It's hard not to love the Cake Café. It's set in one of the most environmentally friendly structures in the city, the Daintree Building, owner Michelle Darmody is one of the most bubbly in the business, and the cakes are good enough to make even the most culinary proficient granny feel inadequate. True, the cups and saucers rarely match, and it's near impossible to find for first-timers (tip: turn right at the Simon Community shop on Camden Street, and right again down the alleyway), but anywhere that serves everything from squishy Victorian sponge to apple cinnamon cake for less than €4 a slice – and divine lemon slices for less than half that – is forgiven of any discrepancies. Keep an eye out for Michelle's homemade mulled wine; a speciality during the winter months. And don't worry about the toilets, while they may look a little grotty, it's because they use recycled rainwater. Who knew saving the environment could be this appetising?


14. Lyons Café


Quay Street, Sligo


Tel 071 914 2969


Henry J Lyons' department store has stood at the same spot on Sligo's Quay Street for almost 150 years now, and while the surrounding area has changed considerably in the years since – the ultra-modern Glasshouse Hotel now stands a few doors down – in-house chef Gary Stafford has managed to maintain a degree of rustic charm about the first-floor café. The menu changes daily (many regulars come here five days a week), but standard favourites include griddled pork belly risoles with onion marmalade, roasted vegetable Provençale bake with yoghurt herb crust and fresh salmon, and cod fillet gratin with potato rosti crust, all of which range between €10 and €12 – the veggie breakfast, featuring leek and cheddar sausages and all the trimmings, is a further bargain at €9. There's something about the vigour of this dining room that harks back to a simpler time, a bit like the Bewley's Grafton Street of your childhood minus the stodgy chips. Hurry up and drop by before Sligo's 'best kept secret' becomes a tourist mecca… with Gary at the helm, it's entirely possible.


15. The Port House


South William Street, Dublin 2


Tel: 01 677 0298


Oliver Hughes and Liam LaHart are a clever bunch. Not content with having rejuvenated the domestic brewing industry with The Porterhouse chain of pubs, they kickstarted a tapas movement in Dublin with the launch of this quirky little hollow on South William Street. What used to be Tutti, a sweet, colourful café, was transformed into a hobbit's den of candles, churros and chorizo. 'Build your own' seems to be the message here; hot and cold tapas dishes range from €3.50 to €6.75 (try the pisto Manchego for a true taste of La Mancha), while the plato de queso (cheese platter) is outstanding value at €12. Fair enough, South William Street will never be midnight on Las Ramblas, but at least you'll save money on the air fare.


16. Eatery 120


120 Ranelagh Road, Dublin 6


Tel: 01 470 4120


Eoin and Brian Lennon opened Eatery 120 in Ranelagh some 15 months ago with seemingly no target market in mind – on an average evening here you're just as likely to find as many regulars from Mint as McDonald's – and they've captured the zeitgeist like no-one else in the area. Lunchtime is the best time to drop in– watch out for the buggies at weekends – with most items on the menu around the €11 or €12 mark. If you can get a table that is. Head chef Eoin worked for Michael Deane and Kevin Thornton before coming here, and it's reflected in the quality of the food –the potted crab is a house speciality and is one of the jewels on the €19.95 'Home Grown and Proud' early bird menu (weekdays 5.30pm – 6.45pm). Exciting enough to titillate the fussiest of gastronomes, yet grounded enough to serve up a decent burger and chips, Eatery 120 is truly a restaurant for Everyman. And woman.


17. Number 32


Chapel Street, Dundalk, Co Louth


Tel: 042 933 1113


Susan Heraghty, the mastermind behind Number 32, took a chance some years back and chose to close for lunch, ploughing her resources into an evening 'express menu'; a twist on the 'early bird' concept – which offers a starter, main course and 'mini-dessert' for €18 before 6.30pm all week, and all night on Mondays. Judging by the early evening crowd here, especially on weekdays, she's on to a winner; the chicken liver pâté with red cherry compote (one of many gems on the 'express menu') is divine. A bright, breezy atmosphere pervades throughout, reflecting the jolly demeanour of the staff; keep an eye out for the head waiter – a professional actor and unpaid comedian, he's almost as much of a draw as the food itself.


18. The Kitchen and Foodhall


Hynds Square, Portlaoise


Tel: 057 866 2061


A lot can happen in 27 years – but don't tell that to Jim Tynan. The enigmatic owner of The Kitchen and Foodhall opened his first premises in Portlaoise as a 22-year-old nipper back in 1982; and it's a good job he stuck around. The menu hasn't changed much in that time – "if we take something off, people are wondering where it is," admits Jim – but then again, it doesn't have to; few places in Portlaoise, or anywhere else for that matter, serve up a sirloin steak as good as this (of Irish Hereford prime beef no less), while the veggie selection (try the nut and lentil roast) is enough to make any carnivore contemplate switching sides. And best of all, almost all menu items cost just €12.50; a testament to Jim's dedication to local produce and simple cooking, and something that's gone down well with the regulars. All three decades of them.


19. Chapter 1 Café


Main Street, Cavan


Tel 049 4373 488


It's a bold operation that takes on the name of one of Ireland's premier restaurants, albeit accidentally, and while Chapter 1 café may lack the 'richesse' of its big city namesake, it's certainly not lacking in reputation. It's the bagels that everyone comes here for; Grainne Hourican, who opened the 40-seater café in 2005 after spending ten years working in the States, is an expert in New York-style bagels, and the 15 or so varieties on offer here are refreshingly experimental. We recommend the Cuban (chicken strips, guacamole and brie, €6.25), or the Bermuda (crispy bacon, melted cheddar and mozzarella, cream cheese, chive and more guacamole, €5.75). Popular with students, tourists, or just those seeking solace from the soup and sandwich offerings elsewhere in the town, Chapter 1 also doubles as an internet café; make sure you bounce an email to the cousins in Long Island saying it's not just New Yorkers that can do bagels...


20. The Old Schoolhouse


Main Street, Clarenbridge, Galway


Tel: 091 796898


It's only been a few months since Daire and Cillian Hanrahan took over The Old Schoolhouse in Clarenbridge, and it already looks as if the brothers have crafted a menu worth the 9km drive from Galway city centre. Daire, working front of house, is an accomplished chef in his own right, having graced the kitchen of Dublin's L'Ecrivain, La Stampa, and a two-star Michelin in Amsterdam, while Cillian, manning the kitchen, earned his stripes at Mint. Under their management, in Daire's words, "everything has been changed round", making what was a quaint, rural eatery into a gastronomic destination of choice for local diners. It serves one of the finest three-course Sunday pub lunches in the country (€25); start with the warm Bluebell Falls goat's cheese salad and follow it up with the slow-cooked roast rump of Angus beef if you don't believe me. Other à la carte delights include the duck terrine wrapped in savoy cabbage (€9) and the steamed Galway Bay mussels tossed in smoked paprika and plum tomatoes (€8). A true jewel of the west.