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Why has it taken so long for Dublin to get a proper gastro-pub? It's not rocket science, after all – the notion that folk who are partial to the odd pub visit might like to eat some decent food (as opposed to sad carvery-type horrors) while they're at it.
The Chop House is a welcome newcomer. It opened in what was the Shelbourne House pub a few weeks ago after a frugal (at least in décor terms, I'm sure more serious money was spent on the kitchen) makeover. It's perfectly adequate and in keeping with tough times, although I'd imagine that if business continues as well as it has started the proprietors might be tempted to address the issue of the ugly leaded-window conservatory. For the time being, though, and on a dark evening, it looks just grand.
We visited after work on a Friday. There was '80s music, a bar heaving with 30-somethings and a fine buzz about the place. Felim was very happy to find himself seated in a position that afforded him a fine view of the Munster match on the screen in the bar, somewhere above and behind my left shoulder. His conversation was less than scintillating as a result, so it was just as well that the food was good.
It's a short menu and one on which I'd have been happy to order anything. It's rare to be so spoilt for choice. So we took advice from co-owner Kevin Arundel (late of the Schoolhouse) and our waiter, the lovely Mohammed, originally from Egypt but in Ireland so long that his conversation is peppered with the vernacular. Like. It was he who told us that, in a previous incarnation, the premises had been home to 'a really dodgy pub'. The chef, and Arundel's business partner, is Conor Dempsey – formerly of Dax, one of my favourite Dublin restaurants.
We started with Raw Sashimi Tuna, Soft Quail Eggs, Radish, Spicy Pickled Cucumber, Teriyaki Glaze (€8.50) and the Platter of Home-Made Charcutieres (sic) and Condiments (€10). The tuna was of exceptional quality, and served in a generous portion. This was a simple dish, well conceived, and very, very good.
Five different variations on the pâté theme – ham hock, rabbit and cabbage, chicken and wild mushroom, foïe gras and duck rillettes – comprised the charcuterie platter. There was not a dud amongst them although, for me, the duck was the standout. The accompanying fig jam and bread were on the money too.
For mains we opted for the Slow Roast Belly of Old Spotted Pig, Fondant Potato, Apple Compôte, Roasted Jus (€16.50) and the 32 Day Dry-Aged Charolais Beef 10oz Rib-Eye (€21). The pork came with a health warning from Mohammed, who told us that it was a very fatty dish and that, as he doesn't like fat at all, it wouldn't be something he would choose. We hummed and hawed, checked that the Chop House has a defibrillator, and went ahead. In fact, it wasn't a particularly greasy version of what we all know is a fatty cut and the crackling was delicious. Nice to see somewhere making the effort to use good quality pork, the standard of which tends to be less than inspiring in this country, and managing to keep the price fair.
The steak could have been better trimmed, but the meat was good, full of flavour and cooked rare, as ordered. The accompanying bearnaise was perfect, but I'd have preferred not to have the red onion marmalade smeared across the top of the steak – it should have been served on the side. The chips weren't up to the standard of the rest of the offering.
We shared a fine Lemon Tart with Honey Mascarpone (€5.50) – another generous portion, more than adequate for the two of us – before we were asked to vacate the table. It's a small quibble, but having booked for 7pm we did not expect to be evicted before 9pm, which is what happened although there had been no mention of the table being needed back by any specific time at the time of booking. The fact that the request was made with no small amount of charm helped and we moved to the bar to watch the end of the match.
With a bottle of prosecco and a good few glasses of wine, our bill came to €127 before service. On a school night, a starter, main, pudding and shared bottle of wine would work out at about €40 a head before service.
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