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Surprisingly, the gastropubs that have been such a phenomenon in the UK over the last decade have been slow to appear in Ireland. The idea of a pub with decent, reasonably- priced food is surely something for which there would be a market? In any event, we had spotted The Exchequer soon after it opened a couple of months back and were keen to check out its offering.
The décor is on the confused side, as if The Exchequer is not quite sure what it wants to be when it grows up – there's a disconnect between the look of the place with its smart furniture and funky wallpaper and the notion of a gastropub. The menu augured well, though – it was one of those rare occasions where we would have been happy to order just about anything.
I started, on the recommendation of our waitress, with the Foie Gras and Duck Liver Terrine (€8.95), served with a spiced apple chutney and toast. The consistency was too smooth, the flavour dull. I was disappointed. I wished that I had gone with the Bowl of Steamed Cockles and West Cork's Roaring Water Bay mussels (€11.95) instead.
Caroline's cup of Spiced Oxtail Soup with sourdough bread (€2.95) was a hit – gutsy and intense, the pearl barley making for a super-filling portion, just the thing for a bitter day. Felim's cup of Doran's Smoked Chowder with potato and leek (also €2.95) was less inspired, bland even – too much white fish and not enough smoked to deliver any meaningful flavour.
For mains, I opted for the Slow Cooked Crispy Duck Salad with poached duck egg and Desmond cheese shavings (€12.95). This was quite delicious, with an interesting mix of leaves and a generous helping of duck. Felim's Ballon Farm Pork and Chive Sausages (€13.95) came with creamed mash, crispy onions and red wine jus – a simple, tasty plate that would set you up for a good afternoon's work. The standout dish, however, was Caroline's Ling Fingers battered in Hilden Belfast Blonde with pea purée, tartar sauce and chips (€13.95). Everyone is doing fish and chips these days, but very few are doing it as well as The Exchequer. The batter was light and excellent, and it's good to see a sustainable fish such as ling on the menu. Chips were a tad flaccid and a side dish of 'seasonal' vegetables (€3.25) comprised white asparagus and spinach. I'm not sure where white asparagus is in season at the moment but it definitely ain't here.
For pudding we shared a dessert and a Selection of Irish Farmhouse Cheeses (€11.95) with grapes, fig chutney and crackers. There was a goat, a blue and two hards – all good, and a more than generous serving. Blueberry and Almond Tartlet (€5.95) came with an organic amaretto ice cream that we didn't like at all. The tartlet, however, was fantastic. Our waitress told us that the pastry chef is a Brazilian woman who used to work under Kevin Thornton and that she spent the summer apprenticed to a chocolatier in Spain, so I'd wager that any of the chocolate-based puddings would be worth a try. (At night there is a chocolate-tasting plate of which I have heard good reports.)
Service throughout was friendly if a bit haphazard, with coffee arriving ahead of the cheese and pudding and a few longeurs over the course of our meal.
The bill for three, including an extra portion of chips, one small bottle of water and a glass of wine and a coffee each, came to €115 before service – or over €40 per head. Too expensive, we thought, for what we got. The Exchequer has a couple of other, cheaper, deals – pie and a pint for €15, and soup and a sandwich for €10, which might be worth checking out. There is talent in the kitchen here – the chef is Lee Doyle, ex-Cooke's Café – and when the creases in service and pricing are ironed out, I'm sure that The Exchequer will fare well.
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